Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 (WF 96)

The warmest site of the 4 Giant Steps single-vineyard chardonnays, but planted on a south-facing slope in Tarrawarra. As with all of them, this was whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented 15% new French puncheons). A fuller, bright, green gold. Quite restrained with aromas of stone fruits, oatmeal and a little wet rock. I like both the intensity and restraint on the palate and this may, paradoxically, need the longest of the 4 single-vineyard 2021 chardonnays to open up. Date Tasted: Feb 2022; Drink to: 2028; Price: $65.00; Alcohol: 13%; Rating: 95 Points; Philip Rich; James Halliday Wine Companion

Sweet oak into white stonefruit, citrus and apple, grapefruit. Powerful from the outset. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed, full solids for all of the single vineyard releases. A bit of mlf for all of them too. This is in impeccable – not to mention incredible – shape. Controlled. Powerful. Tarraford should be the most rich, for site and aspect, but it’s so taut, almost salty in its savouriness. Cracking wine. The ‘loudest’ of the single vineyards in that it brings the flavour but simultaneously so very, very good. Tasted: Jul 2022; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $65; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2030+; Rated: 96 Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front